A Myriad of Colors on Desa Adat Serangan: Reclamation, Cultural Diversity, and Enchanting Spiritual Traditi

Statue of Pahlawan Serangan (Source: Personal Collection)

Serangan Island, with a relatively small size, measures approximately 2.9 kilometers in length and 1 kilometer in width, boasting a coastline of about 8 kilometers that embraces its beauty. The name Serangan is derived from the words sira and angen, reflecting its allure that evokes a longing for the natural beauty it offers. Positioned between the tourist destinations of Tanjung Benoa and Nusa Dua to the south, Sanur to the northeast, and Benoa Harbor to the west, Serangan Island stands as a captivating attraction located in the Village/Subdistrict of Serangan, Denpasar City, Bali Province.

Serangan Island, once a small island within the city of Denpasar, underwent a significant transformation through reclamation in 2016 carried out by PT.BTID. The company created a road connecting the mainland of Denpasar to Serangan Island. Initially covering an area of only 70 hectares, Desa Serangan has now expanded to 500 hectares, with approximately 450 hectares resulting from BTID's reclamation efforts. Before this transformation, the island was a livelihood for the Serangan community, with 95% of the population engaged in fishing and the remaining 5% involved in trade.

Prior to the reclamation, the daily life around the island revolved around fishing, tending to coral reefs, and cultivating sea grass, including the iconic Bulung Boni sea grass. Additionally, Kerupuk Klejat is a cracker made from boiled, sun-dried, and fried clam meat, were a distinctive culinary delight symbolizing the marine wealth of Desa Serangan.

This transformation not only improved accessibility but also marked a shift in the traditional way of life and livelihood patterns for the people of Serangan.

Fisherman of Desa Adat Serangan (Source: Personal Collection)

The reclamation journey on Serangan Island has had significant impacts on the lives of the local community, including controversies surrounding land acquisition by the military (ABRI) that felt like a threat to dissenters. Although, after the reclamation, the community was granted permission to sell goods and engage in fishing, the fishing grounds were not as abundant as before. Over time, the permission to sell in the BTID area's beachfront was revoked six years ago due to a planned project. Ironically, the project was never implemented, leaving the community feeling disadvantaged with unused coastal land that should have been utilized. These difficulties have created a lack of preparedness among the community in facing various aspects of life in the future.

In terms of geography, Serangan Village has well-defined boundaries, bordered to the north by Sanur Kauh Village, to the south by Tanjung Benoa Subdistrict, to the west by Pedungan Village, and to the east by the Badung Strait. Administratively, Serangan Village is divided into six Hindu traditional banjars and one Bugis Village adhering to Islam, including Banjar Dukuh, Banjar Peken, Banjar Kawan, Banjar Tengah, Banjar Kaja, Banjar Pojok, and Banjar Bugis. With this administrative structure, Serangan Village reflects the cultural and religious diversity that inhabits the region.

In the northern part of Serangan Island, its territory directly borders the sea and mangrove forests, making approximately 60 percent of the island consist of water. In the past, Serangan Island served as a stopover for sailors from Makassar seeking a water supply. After experiencing the beauty of the island and being influenced by sira angen or longing, many sailors decided to settle there. The settlement they formed later became known as Bugis Village.

Fisherman Jukung (Source: Personal Collection)

The people of Serangan Island depend on marine resources for their livelihoods. Despite significant coastal area reduction due to island reclamation, the local community has adapted by engaging in various professions such as seaweed farming and working in the maritime sector. The island's population consists of native Balinese people and migrants from various ethnic groups, including the Bugis people. This diversity creates cultural harmony on Serangan Island, illustrating how the island is not just a beautiful place to live but also involves rich interactions among different community groups.

Appealing destinations such as the Fishing Village, Turtle Park Serangan, Sakenan Temple, and a variety of culinary delights can be easily enjoyed by visitors eager to explore the beauty of Serangan Island. This change not only enhances accessibility but also opens new opportunities for tourism development and increased tourist activities on the island.

Statue of Turtle Education and Conservation Center (Source: Personal Collection)

Turtle Park Serangan, or the Turtle Education and Conservation Center (TCEC), located at Jalan Tukad Punggawa No. 4, Serangan Village, South Denpasar, Bali, is a recommended tourist destination on Serangan Island. It focuses on a conservation mission to save sea turtles from extinction by relocating turtle nests to a captive facility.

The steps involve the collection of turtle eggs to protect them from predators and human activities. After reaching a suitable age, the hatchlings are released into the open sea, while some turtles remain in captivity for research, education, tourism, and ceremonial purposes. Through these efforts, Turtle Park Serangan plays a crucial role in the preservation and sustainability of sea turtles on the island.

In addition to being a tourist destination, Serangan Island also boasts a historically significant spiritual site, namely Pura Dalem Sakenan. The name Pura Sakenan comes from the word sakya, meaning to focus one's mind directly on God.

Pura Sakenan (Source: Personal Collection)

Dwijendra Tattwa teaches that Danghyang Nirartha united with the Divine on Serangan Island, where he established the Pura Dalem Sakenan in the 15th century. Pura Sakenan, built around the year 1489 during the reign of Dalem Waturenggong, serves as the focal point for celebrations of Pujawali every 210 days, especially during Kuningan, which falls on Saturday Kliwon.

Hindu devotees celebrate through prayers at three temples, including Pura Susunan Wadon, Pura Susunan Agung, and Pura Dalem Sakenan, all located along the coastline. This ritual is not only a religious ceremony but also provides a spiritual experience and a profound journey for Hindu worshippers. The powerful symbolism of the three temples represents Purusa, Pradhana, and Lingga.

The Desa Adat Serangan involves awig-awig, rules and prohibitions deeply rooted since ancient times. For instance, during wedding celebrations, the presence of a traditional village head (bendesa adat) is an unavoidable obligation. Additionally, the ngaben ceremony procession in this village also showcases its unique characteristics. Unlike the common tradition in Bali, which often involves cremation, the Desa Adat Serangan chooses to bury the deceased. This tradition is also reflected in the handling of setra or graves, which should only be cleaned when there is an upcoming ngaben ceremony.

The Inner of Pura Dalem Cemara (Source: Personal Collection)

The Pura Khayangan Tiga in Desa Adat Serangan captivates with its unique concept. Unlike the common Khayangan Tiga concept consisting of Puseh, Desa, and Dalem, Desa Adat Serangan emphasizes diversity by incorporating two additional dalem temples, namely Pura Dalem Segara and Pura Dalem Cemara. In total, Desa Adat Serangan can boast the presence of five temples enriching its spiritual heritage, along with a bale agung serving as the center for religious activities. Interestingly, during the Pujawali celebration, Desa Adat Serangan follows the pawukon counting, except for Pura Segara, which uses the sasih system.

Desa Adat Serangan radiates its charm through exceptional uniqueness, manifested through the monthly mesolah ceremony. Barong, rangda, and telek take center stage, adding to the distinctiveness of Desa Adat Serangan. Every month, this ceremony presents captivating sandar and mask dances performed by third-grade elementary school students. Another special feature is the "ida due mesolah" celebration on every Purnama (full moon), where barong and rangda mesolah. Interestingly, every five years, Desa Adat Serangan holds a pasupati, a ritual cleansing for barong and rangda involving a special role for elementary school children.

The Inner of Pura Dalem Susunan Wadon (Source: Personal Collection)

During Pasupati, the ritual of selecting dancers becomes a special moment in Desa Adat Serangan. In this process, each banjar plays a role in selecting one girl and one boy to become dancers in the sacred dance. Due to its high religious value, the chosen children undergo intensive training for 3 to 4 months, ensuring that they truly master every movement of the sacred dance. As the selected dancers grow older, they will be replaced by the next generation who will continue the noble duty as dancers in the following ceremonies.

The continuity of this tradition not only preserves the cultural richness of Desa Adat Serangan but also serves as evidence of the commitment to preserving the artistic and religious heritage that has become an integral part of the local community's life.

Serangan Island, with its enchanting natural beauty and captivating cultural diversity, offers an unforgettable experience. Desa Adat Serangan, as an integral part of this island, opens a window into the uniqueness and local distinctiveness worth exploring. From the stretches of beaches to richly meaningful traditional ceremonies, Serangan Island provides an opportunity for visitors to connect with nature and the cultural heritage that thrives in every inch of its land.